Puppy Reservation Process

Click the Button Below for Puppy Reservation Form

Price for females is $1,600 to $2,000. Price for males is $2,000 to $2,300.
We have puppies available now from our current litter.

Please fill out the Puppy Reservation form below.

We prefer buyers pickup their puppies in person, however, if you cannot come in person, you may send someone you trust to pick up your puppy for you. We also have a neighbor with whom you may make arrangements to drive your puppy to you in his car, at least part way, (if that will help.)

He will also meet you at the airport with puppy if need be.

When puppies are born we send out Birth Notification with photos of the mother with her puppies at two to five days of age. Also photo of the father. You will need to let us know (via email ) that you want a puppy within 72 hours of receiving your notice of birth.

Females are $1,600 - $2,000.
Price for male puppy is $2,300;  When you receive the birth announcement and first photos it is time to send deposit ( half of the purchase price. )(or,if more convenient for you to pay the entire amount upfront, that is an option also)

If you have a Zelle account we prefer you use Zelle.

Zelle recognizes our email of flyingw@bright.net

We also accept Personal checks for deposit; In that case, please make your check out to Flying W Farms Kennels LLC and mail it to Fredericka Wagner P.O. 845 Piketon, Ohio. 45661;

If your deposit is not received within 14 a days of date of our email birth announcement , the puppy will go to next name on the list.

We will send new photos at Six weeks old; When you see the Six week photos the balance of payment is then due .

Method of payment, we prefer you use Zelle if you have a Zelle account. Please use Zelle no later than the day before pickup; Our cell phone service is very poor in this area and internet can be unreliable; Therefore do not count on Zelle the day of pickup.

We cannot accept any type of check for the final payment but you may pay in cash if that is more convenient for you.

If for some reason you later need to cancel, we will move you to next litter.

Price includes vet check, health certificate, microchip and first puppy shot. We deworm our puppies at two weeks of age and every two weeks thereafter until they go home. We use Liquid Panacur dewormer for puppies.

We raise our puppies in our house and they are very well socialized. 
To reserve a puppy, please fill our the puppy reservation form; we need your name, phone number, your address; tell us if you want a male or female and color you want.

Please send paragraph or two about the home you are offering our puppy and be sure to tell us why you want one of our puppies. Please tell us about your family, ; do you already have a dog(s)? Photos appreciated if you would send some, not required but we like to see where the puppy will be going. If all is well, we will send you an email confirming your reservation. No deposit is due until you receive a notice that your puppy has been born.

CHECK IN WITH US EVERY NOW AND THEN TO RECONFIRM YOUR RESERVATION.

More about the FLYING W FARMS KENNELS, LLC puppy process and some additional important information:

  • We will not ship puppies as cargo. We do prefer that you drive here to pick the puppy up or fly to either Cincinnati or Columbus airport (both are about 80 miles from our farm) and carry the puppy back with you in the passenger cabin of the plane.
    If you cannot travel to pick your puppy up, it may be possible to for you to arrange for someone you know and trust to pick up your puppy for you. We are fine with that process as well.
  • We want the puppies we raise to be treated as family members, and as such they should live in the house with the family.

Safety:
Bare wood floors and tile can be slippery, and running, klutzy puppies run a risk of serious injury. Try to keep your puppy on carpet as much as possible. If you have slippery floors, just pick up several rubberized bath rugs and create islands of safety. This will also help your puppy get used to the floor.

Do not let the puppy jump off anything higher than six inches for first sixteen weeks of its life, and do all you can to minimize high-impact activity for the first year. Jumping down from heights or over things can injure rapidly developing front legs. Moderate exercise "on the flat" is fine, given you keep the safety of developing bones and joints in mind. walking, etc.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

EARLY TRAINING

Your vet can usually guide you to a good trainer either a group or private. Unless you intend to never have your dog outside without a leash, the goal of this training must be off-leash reliability under all conceivable circumstances. Prior to achieving this reliability, the dog must not be allowed outside a suitably fenced area off-leash. This process is designed to ensure that each puppy we breed receives a loving, responsible and permanent home, and to give you the greatest possible chance at a happy and long life together. The American Mastiff is very trainable and wants to please.

Many of our dogs progress to gaining the Canine Good Citizens Award,  Many of our dogs become service and/or therapy dogs for the disabled and for those suffering with PTSD.

You will be amazed at what these wonderful dogs can learn! They are usually first in their class no matter what the goal.

 

 

MORE ABOUT CARING FOR YOUR NEW PUPPY ("aka" Puppy instructions")

FIRST AND FOREMOST; Please be sure your puppy has a safe, secure quiet place for it to sleep and rest. Growing puppies need a lot of sleep; they will wake up, potty, play maybe ten minutes and go back to sleep. The larger the breed the more rapidly it grows, the more sleep it needs. Growing literally wears them out! Please be sure all those in the household know not to disturb the puppy while it is sleeping. Let it wake up on its own; Please tell the smaller children, "puppy sleeping, cannot pet puppy now." (same as with a Human baby, please let the child sleep). Puppies who are constantly disturbed when sleepy get grouchy and may even begin to growl at the disturbance. (same as they would to their littermates) Also, Puppies that get picked up and handled too much in the first few weeks at home become sore, they can actually be bruised under the skin, they hurt when picked up too much, and that makes them very grouchy (same as human baby). The best way to handle the puppy is have an adult pick it up the way Robin or Fredericka showed you when you picked it up here at our farm; have the children sit on couch or floor; Place the puppy with them and show them how to pet it,etc. In this way the puppy learns to trust and love the family. And that is what we all want. The better part of raising a puppy is the same common sense you use when you bring a new baby home from the hospital.

 

  • HINTS ON FLYING YOUR PUPPY HOMEBring a chew toy to put in puppy crate just before the flight, for puppy to chew if she/he wishes.

    Once your flight is airborne, IF AT ALL POSSIBLE PUT THE PUPPY ON YOUR LAP IN ITS CARRIER, UNZIP TOP AND PUT YOUR HAND IN TO COMFORT THE PUPPY. If the attendant sees you and insists you put the
    puppy back on The floor try this;

    · slide the carrier out from under the seat in front of you (so it is in front of your seat, under your knees) and open the top flap. Don't let the puppy get out. * At the first opportunity, ask the flight attendant for a cup of ice cubes.
    The puppy will nap mostly, but if she /he is restless, hold a cube in your fingers and let the puppy lick it. S/he may consume two or three cubes at a time, two or three times during the flight. This is good, it does wonders to keep

    Them satisfied and hydrated. If the puppy is fussy, stroke with your hand. Then, the moment the pup quiets down, THAT is when you sweetly tell them what an utterly wonderful, brave, smart dog they are :-), thus reinforcing the desired behavior. Any time you can get the puppy out of the carrier -- before taking off, during layovers, whenever you are not on the plane -- do so. Play and walk around and give multiple pee pad opportunities. Note: look for an unused gate area to do this. Be prepared to attract a LOT of attention, even if you select the most out-of-the-way spot possible! While the pup is in the carrier there is a risk of overheating, Sliding the carrier out and opening the top
    once in flight will be important, as will the cup of ice cubes so you can feed a few from time to time (at least once per hour) to help keep the pup cool. Try to keep the carrier/puppy on your lap; Be discreet and enforce the "stay in the carrier" rule, as some flight attendants can be really strict about it. You might want put the carrier on your lap and "hide" it with a light sheet, etc; but actually, it's likely no one will even notice that your carry-on is warm-blooded! Once again, do your very best to keep the carrier/puppy on your lap; most flight attendants won't even notice.

 

 

 

 

FLYING W FARMS KENNELS, LLC

Shots and Worming:
Our puppies  are wormed with Liquid panacur for puppies oral liquid wormer at two weeks of age and once every 10 days thereafter for as long as it remains in our care. Please consult with your veterinarian to determine schedule and product s/he advises for on going protection for your area. Be sure to ask about heartworm prevention. Also flea, tick, ear mite prevention.

Shots:

Your puppy got its first 6 way puppy shot at age six weeks; (Spectra 6)("The puppy shot")You should now consult with your veterinarian to determine schedule and product s/he advises for your area. Rabies is usually given at age four to six months. Again, consult your vet for advice regarding vaccination schedules, etc.

Food and Water: Any good food that DOES NOT CONTAIN CORN is fine; The first ingredient should be Salmon, meat, or at least chicken meal; brown rice is good but be sure NO CORN.

We feed our puppies Diamond Naturals Salmon and potato Skin and Coat all life stages food. If you want to buy a large breed puppy food, or some other brand all life stage food, that will work as well. You may want to consult with your vet regarding best food for puppy. We will give you some of our food to take home so you can mix half and half with yours in order to switch your puppy over to yours alone over several days. Remember, switching food abruptly can cause diarrhea. Clean fresh water should be available to your puppy at all times.

However, if you are crate training your puppy be sure to offer the puppy a drink after nighttime potty breaks if not yet sleeping through. The puppy can go without water no more than eight hours overnight once s/he is sixteen weeks old and sleeping through the night, or if crated during the day for 3 hours or less, as long as you are conscientious about providing water at all other times, and your puppy remains well-hydrated. We keep water and food in front of all of our dogs all the time (24/7). Our puppies and adults are never without food or water. If you are crate training and have a nice large cage you can leave water and food in one corner of the crate thru the night. If you position the water and food at the back of the crate, it is less likely to be spilled or knocked over; Putting near the front of the crate means it will be more likely to be spilled when the puppy comes running to greet you!

Never feed anything (treats or food) preserved with BHA/BHT or ethoxyquin. These are believed to cause cancer in dogs as well as other problems. Look for food that is preserved with tocopherols, a source of natural vitamin E. It is a good idea to read labels and be sure none of these things are in the food you and your family eat. For instance, lard, (which some cooks still use in biscuits and pie crust) is still preserved with BHA/BHT!

Your puppy will eat a lot and grow at a very rapid rate the first year. Because a young puppy needs small amounts of food very often (they can only hold enough to last a couple of hours), it's important to keep dry food down where the puppy can eat all it wants, anytime it is hungry. This will also help them with teething since chewing the hard kibble helps their teeth and gums. (Most people find their mastiffs will not overeat.)

After the first year, you will find your mastiff consumes no more food than any other large dog, such as a lab or shepherd. We keep our dogs on automatic feeders for their entire lifetime; They have food and water available at all times. They will not overeat, and having food available all the time helps prevent bloat (often caused by eating too fast and swallowing too much air). They know the food is always there so do not "gobble" their food.

Table scraps are ok in moderation after the puppy is eight weeks old. Take the food away from the table and place it in the puppy's dish, to prevent begging. Be careful with new foods as they may cause diarrhea. Do not feed onions, chocolate, nuts, grapes or raisins to dogs, as they can make them very ill or sometimes result in death.

Safety:
Bare wood floors and tile can be slippery, and running, klutzy puppies run a risk of serious injury. Try to keep your puppy on carpet as much as possible. If you have slippery floors, just pick up several rubberized bath rugs and create islands of safety. This will also help your puppy get used to the floor.

Do not let the puppy jump off anything higher than six inches for first sixteen weeks of its life, and do all you can to minimize high-impact activity for the first year to 18 months. Jumping down from heights or over things can injure rapidly developing front legs. Moderate exercise "on the flat" is fine, given you keep the safety of developing bones and joints in mind. walking, etc.

EARLY TRAINING

TEETHING! CHEWING BECAUSE PUPPY TEETH HURT; HERE IS A HINT WE RECEIVED FROM ONE OF OUR ADOPTIVE PARENTS!

She found that the pumpkin and yogurt treat idea was great...diluted each with water, and froze them in popsicle like shapes, then gave them to puppy when puppy teething was making puppy want to chew everything; It seemed to soothe puppy a great deal, and hopefully others can use this tip....

Rough play during puppyhood with larger, more energetic dogs is particularly risky. It is very important that puppies have socialization and play opportunities with dogs you know are safe, but supervise them closely so undue exuberance can be discouraged. Keep in mind that if your puppy is raised with another "hyper" dog, your puppy will learn to be "hyper" which could be a potential danger to his joints and limbs; Mastiffs are bred to be a large, gentle, quiet and calm dog but puppies are definitely influenced by the behavior of the other dogs they come in contact with; It is by far the best to keep your puppy away from very active or "hyper" dogs.

PLAY: never play tug of war or other competitive contact sports with your mastiff. Tug of War encourages aggression as do many other contact sports. It might seem "cute" as a puppy but you should alwaysconsider "Do I want this dog to behave this way when he is full grown?" The instinct of this breed is to be quiet and calm; they like to play but not for long periods of time. They love to go for walks, go camping, ride in the car; they want to be with you doing what you do. But they are not long distance hikers and definitely not much for running especially on hot day. They are not a "frisby" dog and most are not much good at agility. They are bred to be a quiet, calm, loving companion. What they will become depends entirely on what they learn as puppies; If they are raised in an environment of rough and tumble activities you will probably end up with an over 200 lb rough and tumble mastiff; Not a good idea. Your puppy wants to PLEASE YOU. So what he sees you doing, he will want to do. Same with children, right? Raising a puppy is much like raising a child. Most is just common sense reasoning with a picture of a full grown mastiff always in your mind. Temperament is also largely environmental; Your puppy’s parents are quiet well behaved Dogs; They are not at all aggressive; Your puppy is well socialized and well behaved the day You pick it up. From that time on what the puppy’s temperament will become is largely up to you. If you happen to have an older, very calm, gentle dog at home, that older, well trained dog can be a wonderful asset in training your puppy. The puppy will quickly follow the patterns of the older dog. The older dog will always be "the boss."

PUPPY PLAY BITING;

"Puppy play biting.,"is a very annoying habit and this is to be discouraged from day one. When you pick up your puppy you will notice it is quiet and calm, and has no tendency to puppy bite or chew on your fingers. We always ask the adoptive family to avoid waving their hands in front of the puppy's face; No playing tug of war. Do not allow puppy to pull on your clothing.

Do not allow the puppy to lick your hand, fingers or to chew on your fingers, not for one second. Puppy kisses are fine for your face, but not for your hands. "kissing" your fingers can lead to chewing on your fingers. Be sure to have plenty of chew toys for your teething puppy and please do not let it chew on your fingers.

Do your best to teach your children to pet the puppy from top of the head back, gently stroking; Never leave young toddler (child) alone with the puppy when the puppy is new to your home. Close supervision is required when the young child is close to the puppy to be sure the child does not offer his/her fingers or put fingers in the puppy's mouth; Little children, God Bless them, are curious, and that is good. But they tend to see "a hole and want to fill it" such as poking a finger into puppy's ear, eyes, nose or mouth. The child has no intention of hurting the puppy, this is just a natural thing for a child to do. Therefore please supervise the younger children when they are in the same room as the puppy. They puppy will love your children, and never want to hurt them in anyway, but a finger in the eye may result in an startled reaction from the puppy. Both puppy and child must learn mutual respect and what their boundaries are. Dogs actually appreciate boundaries; They, like children, feel far more secure when they know their boundaries. In raising your puppy always be aware these are highly intelligent dogs. A super smart dog will learn a bad habit just as quickly as it learns a good habit. Good loving dispositions are bred into our dogs. This breed is known for its gentleness. But in the end it really is all up to you.

The way you raise your puppy is the way the grown dog will be.

Leaving your Puppy at home while you go to work, etc.
If you need to leave your puppy at home alone (so you can go to work,etc) here is a very good suggestion for you; Prepare a "puppy safe" room such as large bathroom, laundry room, etc. be sure there are no electric wires the puppy can reach or bite thru (instant death). Cover the floor with newspapers, (or the like) so puppy has a place to go "Potty." Place his bed or open door crate on opposite of the room with water and food always available. The puppy will want to go as far away from his bed and food as possible to "potty." Leave a small TV turned to Animal planet or talk show; or a radio tuned to talk show playing in the room.
Be sure it is on high shelf where puppy cannot reach it. Some folks go so far as to record an hour or so of the everyday activities, when the entire family is in home, voices, laughter, table talk, music, etc. They put this cd or tape in player set to repeat when they leave in the morning. Puppy will spend most of his day sleeping, eating, playing with toys, listening to the voices. Works great! this is far and away a much better situation for the puppy than day care.

As soon as you get home take the puppy outside to potty; take the soiled newspapers with you and deposit the solids in the spot you want puppy to use in yard. Tell puppy how good he has been all day! After puppy "potties" outside (they will almost always at least urinate when they reach their "spot") take him inside and make a big fuss over him, including him in all the family activities, evenings after work and hopefully all day Saturday and Sunday. As for the "spot in the yard," best to not clean daily at first. Once the puppy has his spot well established, you can clean daily or immediately if you so choose.

 

Though it's neither possible nor desirable to isolate your dog from any and all possible exposure to pathogens, be cautious about exposing your young puppy to strange dogs or high-traffic "potty" areas, etc., where sick dogs may have been. Limit "sniffing" activity in public areas. Sniffing is not a required component of potty activity and should be kept to a minimum when you're out and about with your dog. (Actually, because dogs love to sniff, some dog trainers effectively use "freedom to sniff at will" as a training reward!) Even at the vet's office, we carry puppies and keep them off the floor until after their third round of shots has been given. Your puppy will not be fully protected by vaccinations until about 24 weeks of age.

**PUPPY DAY CARE AND DOG PARKS ARE DANGEROUS PLACES TO TAKE YOUR PUPPY. Your puppy is much better left at home alone in safe area than left at a day care center for dogs.
Any questions or problems please call Fredericka or Robin at (740) 493-2401.

 

We want the puppies we breed to be treated as family members, and as such they should live in the house with the family. The dog cannot be chained, nor tethered, nor used as a guard dog for any business or non-residential establishment.